Guide · Flood claims

How to make a contents list after a flood

Updated August 2026 · 8 minute read

Your insurer asked for an inventory of everything the water damaged or destroyed — item by item, with age and value. Here's how to actually do that, from someone who's been through it.

First, understand what you're producing

A contents inventory (sometimes called a personal property inventory or proof of loss schedule) is a line-item list of damaged belongings. For each item, the insurer generally wants: a description, quantity, approximate age, condition before the loss, and what it costs to replace today. From that, they calculate actual cash value (ACV) — replacement cost minus depreciation — and, if your policy includes replacement cost coverage, they typically pay the depreciation back after you replace items. (More on this in our ACV vs RCV guide.)

The single most important thing to know: insurers pay the list, not the house. Anything you don't list doesn't get paid. The completeness of this document, more than any negotiation, determines your payout.

Step 1 — Photograph everything before it's hauled away

• Every room, every angle, before cleanup crews or dumpsters arrive.
• Open closets, drawers, and cabinets and photograph the contents — even waterlogged.
• Close-ups of brand labels, model plates, and serial numbers on appliances and electronics.
• Don't discard anything until your adjuster confirms you can (or you've documented it thoroughly). Many policies require keeping damaged items available for inspection.

Step 2 — Mine your old photos

You almost certainly own hundreds of pictures of your belongings without realizing it: birthdays, holidays, ordinary snapshots — with your furniture, electronics, decor, and kitchen sitting in the background. Scroll your camera roll and cloud albums. If your home was ever listed for sale, the listing photos may still be cached on real-estate sites. Every visible item is evidence of ownership and a memory trigger.

Step 3 — Walk the house in your head, room by room

Memory works spatially. Don't try to "list everything you own" — instead, stand at your front door in your mind and walk through. In each room, work in layers:

1. Big furniture first.
2. Walls and windows — art, mirrors, TVs, curtains, rugs.
3. What sat on every surface.
4. Inside every drawer, cabinet, and closet, one at a time. This is where the value hides — kitchen gadgets, linens, tools, clothing.
5. Floors and corners — baskets, pet gear, plants, exercise equipment.

Then sweep by category: holiday decorations (a garage of Christmas totes is often $1,000+), hobbies for each family member, pantry contents, garage tools, kids' toys, and what everyone wore last winter.

Step 4 — Use bulk lines for like items

You don't need to list 14 pairs of shoes individually. Most carriers accept grouped lines for similar items: "Women's shoes, 14 pairs, average $60." Reserve individual lines for anything valuable or brand-specific.

Step 5 — Price at today's replacement cost

Replacement cost is what it costs to buy a comparable item new today — not what you paid, and not garage-sale value. Retailer listings are your reference. Note the age of each item; the insurer will apply depreciation to reach ACV. For jewelry, art, instruments, and collections, check whether your policy has special dollar limits per category.

Mistakes that cost people real money

• Stopping too early. A typical family home holds 250–450 line items. If your list has 60, you're leaving money unclaimed — usually the drawer-and-closet layer.
• Forgetting consumables. A stocked pantry, freezer contents, toiletries, and cleaning supplies are all covered contents.
• Guessing low out of politeness. Use honest, current replacement prices. Underlisting isn't rewarded.
• Missing the deadline. Policies set time limits for submitting your proof of loss — check yours and calendar it.
• One marathon session. Memory returns in waves over days. Work in multiple sittings and keep adding as things come back.

This guide is general information about documenting property, not insurance, legal, or claims advice. For advice about your specific claim or policy, consult a licensed professional in your state.